11. With that, the entire piece can be removed 12. A-B The spot-welds that hold the roof to the remaining strip of rear panel are now addressed. As with the previous ones, the welds are drilled (although not completely through) and then, in this case, chiseled through with a pneumatic tool - gently, as Marco doesn't want to damage the roof in any way.
	13. With the upper lip gone, the areas are hit with the grinder to ensure that all of the material is gone. 14. A hammer and dolly are used to get the edges of the doorframes back to square.
	15. The new panel is set in place and checked for fit. Once it has been seen how the piece actually hits, it will be removed and any modifications that are needed will be made. 16. One trick that Marco uses is to remove a little material from the lower edge of the insert, as well as half the upper lip. He says this makes it easier to fit and weld.
	17. To give the lip of the insert a place to fit, a flanging too is used to prep the lower edge of the cab. This will slightly recess the metal and allow the new panel an area to fit up against. 18. The insert is lifted back into place.
	19. There may be a little prodding to get the piece to fit. This is done with a few taps of a rubber mallet. 20. Clamps are used to give a better idea of exactly how the piece will fit.
	21. Getting the corners right is the hardest part of the job. Tape is used to outline what Marco perceives to be the best line. 22. A cutting wheel is then used to remove the excess material.
	23. The piece is removed again. 24. A-B Precise measurements are taken and the piece is trimmed.
	25. The flanging tool is used on the inside edges of the insert. 26. Holes are drilled along the inside edge of the insert. This will allow for the welding to be easily done.

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