21. A disc sander was used to grind down any of the old spot-welds that were left and to clean off all of the area down to bare metal. You will be doing plug-welds here so the area must be very clean.

22. After the lip of the top section has been ground clean, grind the surface of the body down to bare metal extending away from the work area about 1 inch or so. Clean off the lower area, too.

23. Measure the height of the new window panel at each end and across the middle. This should be laid out on the lower cab panel, so it can be cut again to get the proper opening width. When laying out the line to be cut, be sure to allow about ½ inch the new piece to overlap the lower cab panel.

24. Cutting along the edge of the tape with the die grinder and cutoff wheel requires a steady hand in order to make the cut right on the edge of the tape.

25. Set the unit into place and check the fit all around the opening. Carefully check the overlapped area along the bottom. Mark a line along the bottom edge of the window panel and then remove the unit. If the body needs to be trimmed anywhere, do so now and then set the window unit back into place. It's much better to double-check everything than be sorry later.

26. All of the paint must be ground off about 2 inches down from the edge. Clean it down to bare metal all along to ensure that a good weld will be obtained.

27. A flanging tool was used to proved the body panel with a recessed area so the window panel will lay over it and remain even. It is difficult to get a good flange around the curved areas so work slowly.

28. Both side areas need ¼ inch holes punched into them so they can be plug-welded in a similar manner as the stock section was originally spot-welded. Start the first hole in about 1 inch from the end and space the others out about 3 to 4 inches apart. A ¼ inch drill bit will work if a hole punch is not available.

29. The lip of the top section should also be punched so plug-welds can be done on the seam section. This type of weld will look similar to the factory spot-welds.

30. All areas where welding is going to be done should be taken down to bare metal to ensure that welds get good penetration.

31. After the unit has been set into place, clamp it take a close look as to how it fits into the opening. Some tapping here and there will probably be needed. Remember that this very visible area is right out there for all to see.

32. Start off with a couple of tack-welds right up in the corner. Check proper fit in this area.

33. If the panel fits up well along the jamb and tightly against the lower body area, tack-weld the lower corner.

34. A&B Now move to the other side and work the unit into place so the corner fits up tight to the top of the doorjamb lip is down tight. Clamp the area down well and place a couple of good tacks in the corner.





35. After the last corner has been tacked, check the fit all around the unit, and if there are any problems, the tack-weld in that corner can be cut loose. Then work the area some more before re-tacking.

36. Here is a look at the doorjamb area. The lip that rest on the jamb is wider than the jamb and extends out beyond about ¼ inch. That is the way it was made and that will be dealt with shortly.

37. After the unit is set into place, you'll notice that the vertical lip at the top of the new unit will not allow the top seam to be plug-welded so it should be cut off. After setting the unit into place for the first trial fit, you see there is going to be a problem, it can be cut off before final installation.

38. Removing the lip makes it much easier to clamp the seam down tightly. Unless you're planning to mold in the top body seam, you must make sure that the seam is closed up tightly across the top and that the two are smooth to each other.





39. Before the window unit was set into place we showed the lip of the top section being punched with ¼ inch holes about 2 to 3 inches apart. Those holes will now be plug-welded. It is a very tight area for the welder , but it has to be welded all the way across the top.

40. After the top has been welded, move on to the doorjambs. Plug weld the inside and outside of the jamb area. Make sure that the new piece fits tight against the jamb, since it is being welded.





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